Manufacture of embroidery, lace, and similar artistic products



I Patented Feb. 25, 1 930 1 UNITED sir-Ares PATENT QFFICE VAMAN' m xoxarnun, on NEW YORK, N. Y.

-IMANI TFAGTURE or EMBROIDERY, LACE, A m SIMTLAR ARTISTIC rnonucrs lution or by disintegration. Thus in the. manufacture of embroidery the idea of disj solving out the backingleaving the embroid- 10 ery intact, is not new. But heretofore the choice of a suitable backing that can be dis.-

solved out from its embroidery by agents that would not damage the latter, has been a matter of difficulty as Well as expense greatlyhampering the choice embroidery mate rials. Thus in making cotton embroidery, fabric-backs of Wool, silk, or even rubber had to be used. When the embroidery is stitched on a'Woolen backing and the Whole is subsequently put in a bleaching bath of calcium 9* hypochloride, the woolen back is disintegrated by the action of hypochloride, leaving the embroidery intact and bleached. When rubber is used as a backing, it is removed from the embroidery by dissolution in organicsolvents. In suchprocesses the backing is usually more expensive than the em-- broidery'material. vHeretofore'no one has 1 so far as I know been able to use successfully i a, cheaper backing of cotton or jute in the manufacture of embroidery Without giving the same a'prelirninary treatment such as with oxalic acid, that Was in danger of communicating itself to the cotton and injuring the embroidery. To remove cotton or vegetable'fibre backing from cotton stitched embroidery has appeared quite impossible and no attempt seems to havebeen directed to- Wards the. solutionzof this problem.

To'treat thefabric-back chemically in some Way so that it Would behave differently to- I Ward certain, reagents, than the embroidery,

may appear ,quite logical; But" the vegetable fibre does not lend itself to such treatments Without operations that arequite technical, expensive and sometimes dangerous. I Thus nitration or esterification'of the backing might suggest itself; but ineither case, the process becomes rather difficult and technlcal. Also Without question, it is GXPGIISlVB'If not 1925. Serial No. 33,290.

dangerous. In addition to the aforemen. tioned difiiculties, there has not been found heretofore any chemical reagent that, While destroying one of. the fibers, Will not harm in any degree the other-fiber. Thus in deal-.

,ing with a vegetable and animal fiber coin bination',.th e solvents of the one (for example caustic or strong bleaching solution 'if the' animal'fiber is to be destroyed) also attack, I 7

though in a minor degree, the other fiber.

'I have found that I: can bring about a better resultjin a simple and relatively in expensive Wayand Withoutthe least possible danger either to the embroidery or to the operations, by suitably protecting my embroidery thread to prevent its destruction instead of treating the backing to promote its destruction andthen subsequently removing the backing by solution by any reagent such as Well-known vegetable-fibresolvents or disintegrating agents already knoWn', or

specially prepared for this purp'ose. Thus l' may treat the fibre or thread tobeusedin the embroidery either With Wax, or ;oil,;or

rubber, or the plastic compounds or synthetic resins, or with aluminum oleate or any sub.- stance whlchprotects it from the 20111011 of the reagent either by preventing the penetration of the agent, by neutralizing its action or by repelling thesolventin hichit v is dispersed as for example aluminum oleate repelswvater in which oxalic acid might. be dissolved. I further illustrate my invention by'the following 'examples:

Example I I take the usual commercial emb'reifdery I yarn of cotton and dip it for a shorttlme n any melted Wax or a solution of such Waxy materials. I prefer to use an inert Wax} of a high melting point which is not reacted upon .bythe usual vegetable fibresolventsn High melting paraffin Wax with or ithout the admixture of other Waxy materials toimprove its qualities, is suitable for. this purpose. I may, however, use any Waxy-material Whether truly inert or not, as long as it lends itself to substantially protecting jthe-fibrei,

Thus beeswax, various Water-insoluble gum-j my resins,'chlorinated Waxes from 'fnaphthaacid alone or with a suitable mixture of line and other organic substances and even some fatty acids may be useful depending upon thesolvents used later to dissolve out the backing. When using a Waxy solution, I may choose a non-combustible organic solvent of suitable volatility, e. g. carbontetrachloride, trichlorethylene. I now use this waxprotected thread for stitching embroidery on any cotton cloth. I then subject the embroidered back to the action of concentrated hydrochloric acid for a few minutes and after removing the acid by pressing and not washing, I dry the whole at a suitable temperature, or I may treat it with concentrated hydrochloric acid in which free chlorine or hypochlorous acid is dissolved when the back is dissolved out in the cold ust by immersion. The dried back in the former case is brittle and can be crumpled and brushed off from the embroidery which has not been touched by hydrochloric acid, The wax from the embroidery may be dissolved and recovered for using over and over again. In this example I may use fatty acid protector for the embroidery yarn as it is not affected by hydrochloric acid in which it is insoluble. Imay also use jute or other vegetable fabrics as backing.

E wample [1 Everything same as in Example I except that I may treat the embroidered back with a saturated solution of zinc-chloride or zincchloride and hydrochloric acid as a solvent.

E zmmple [If Thetreatment before embroidery stitching being the same as in Example I, I treat the embroidered back with strong sulphuric sulphuric and nitric acids in such a way as to tender the'back and dissolve it out.

Example I V The preliminary treatment of the yarn and stitching the embroidery being the same as in Example I, I then treat the embroiderec back with a solution of cuprammonium and dissolve out the back from the embroidery.

Example V All else same as in Example I except that I subsequently treat-the embroidered back with strong caustic soda solution to the mercerizing point and then add enough carbon bi-sulphide to dissolve out the back and wax in one operation.

To particularize: Stitch an embroidery design with wax-protected thread on any cotton foundation. Dip this embroidered cloth in caustic soda solution and without removing the caustic soda, treat it withcarbon bi-sulphide. The reason why carbon bisulphide does not dissolve out the embroidery is a follows: The wax-protected embroidery does not absorb caustic soda as wax is inert to caustic and water-resistant. The caustic is absorbed by the foundation cloth only. The carbon bi-sulphide forms xanthate when it comes in contact with caustic-soaked foundation and dissolves it out. It does not touch the emboridery as it has no caustic and hence no Xanthtate is formed on its surface.

I do not wish to limit myself to these five examples as they are only of illustrative nature. In carrying out my invention, I may protect the embroidery yarn with any material, substantially inert under the conditions used and insoluble in the particular solvent or solvents used later on to dissolve out the back. I may prefer to make the yarn pliable by first dipping it in high boiling oils such as lubricating oils or drying or non-drying fatty oils and after pressing out the said oil, may further treat it with a solution of a mixture of waxy materials. Thus I may embroider with silk, artificial silk, wool or any vegetable fibre or union (mixed fibre) yarn or cotton, jute or anycheap vegetable fabric and dissolve out or distintegrate the back from the embroidery. It is understood that I may utilize the various dissolved out solutions of vegetable-fabric backs in various arts as byproducts such as fibre-board, vulcanized fibres, artificial silks, collodions, varnishes and in plastics.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim is:

1. The process of manufacturing embroidcries or laces which comprises treating the embroidery yarn with a coating of a material which is pliable and inert to solvents of the yarn fibers, stitching the yarn upon a base fabric composed of the same fiber as the embroidery yarn and discharging the base fabric by means of such solvents.

2. The process of manufacturing embroideries or laces which comprises treating the embroidery yarn with a coating of material, stitching the yarn upon a base fabric composed of the same fiber as the embroidery yarn and discharging the base fabric by means of solvents of such fiber. I

3. The process of manufacturing embroideries or laces which comprises treating the embroidery yarn with a coating of a material which is pliable and inert to V discharging agents for the embroidery yarn fibers, stitching the yarn upon a base fabric composed of the same fibers as the yarn and discharging the base fabric by means of such discharging agents.

VAMAN a. KOKATNUR. 

